Owners of Pearl Eliminator p2002 respond!

  • drummies

    Maybe it's not the bearings? I have the same problem with speedcobra. Many owners of the Eliminator complain about the backlash shaft, so most likely it's the gimbal gear. Otherwise, why do people change the standard shaft to Axis? But many people do that.

    I once had pedals like Maxton. It was possible to remove the shaft and have two single pedals available. At that time I was barely squeezing 120, and with two singles it came out without any problems, while with the driveshaft it was quite problematic because of the same feeling in the left leg that is described in the post. So, before emptying your wallet, find out the true cause of the problem.

  • kirill_an

    I took the axis shaft from a friend and the problem was not solved. The sensations are hardly better.

    There is indeed a slight backlash in the shaft. But, as I understand it, it is factory-made, and is present on all pirls.

  • drummies

    I don't even know about that. I've never played Pearl before. Logically, there will always be resistance n in the bearing. If you go into the calculation, the resistance on the right pedal is 2n, on the left 4n + shaft.

    So, you either need to change the bearings on the left pedal so that the ratio of the resistances of the two pedals is set to 1:1, which in principle is expensive and long, or you have to accept and get used to it, as many do.

    A year ago I visited my hometown and met a drummer who has different springs, which are stretched again in different ways. It turns out that the left one is similar in gravity to an Iron Cobra, and the right one is like a DW 8000, and lowered into rags. And nothing, the uncle calmly gave 160-170. Although, it is worth noting that he is left-handed, but this does not change much.

  • kirill_an

    a person can get used to anything, but the purpose of my torment with adjustment is to play with comfort.



    Hopefully someone else will write something useful before you change the bearing.



    By the way, on what basis did you think that there is 4n on the left? Additional shaft connections?

  • drummies

    I'll just take you back to the setup stage:

    Take the right pedal (well, or the left, if you have a left eliminator), pick it up (clean and lubricate all bearings);

    Fasten both beaters into the holders, unscrew the chain and relax the springs completely.

    Shake the beaters, see if they swing at the same speed. Then there are two options: if they swing at the same speed, then adjust the springs as you need in this position, and only then attach the chain, shaft and left pedal.

    If you can't even get them to swing in phase, then most likely it's the bearings or some stupid friction (something is squeezed somewhere).



    Well, the bearings in this pedal are standard, like on a skateboard, buy in return either in a skate shop in a pretty package, or in any store with bearings (bring them any bearing from the pedal so that they pick you up) any ABEC 7 and you will be happy

  • aroma

    Anyway, on the pedals with a cardan, the sensations will be different, since there is no direct connection with the beater and you have to move the whole mechanism with your foot, this cannot be avoided.

    And to everything else, the legs are most likely developed in different ways, from which the feeling of discomfort.

  • alex_marchenko

    Also check the heels of the pedals! If you use one pedal more often than the other, the mount may loosen and the left pedal will move tighter than the right! In general, unscrew the heels and try to make the same effort to roll them, and if the effort is different, then adjust accordingly in that place too.



    Again, I have 2-3 rolls of the left beater in phase with the right. On the red eccentric and the springs are 90% tensioned.

  • 1sthast

    MB subjective feeling? On the contrary, it always seems to me that the left pedal is lighter, it is not so clearly felt under the foot, but this is the same on all pedals, to one degree or another

  • kirill_an

    a friend has the same pearl, but the pedals are almost perfectly the same.

    + it is not only difficult for my left foot to play on the left pedal, but also on my right.

  • andreevmaxik

    Everything except the spring, it is mainly responsible for the stroke. Tune it in the same way as the right one and get used to it

  • kirill_an

    alas, the same spring setting only makes it worse.

  • a_sharapko

    Take it apart and grease - then reassemble.

    I faced problems like this. It is mechanical obstacles in the form of dirt (most often) that have such an effect on pedal travel. Or there is a defect that is invisible to the eye in the assembled state, which you can detect only with a complete analysis.

    Do not be shy - there is nothing scary and difficult, whatever a person whose hands and head are in place would not cope with.

  • kreker

    here is a good article on setting up

    NGO Pearl Eliminator P-2002 (C/B)





    To begin with, I will decipher the NPOs - some design features.

    And now to the point..


    Recently I decided to rearrange the cardans once again. In order not to get used to one thing, I play periodically on Pearl and on Tama HP200. I put the HP200 on the base, and took pearl home.

    Because the base is somewhat dusty, dust and dirt settled on the cardan, I decided to do a full tech.inspection with preventive maintenance.

    I stocked up on keys, VD40, oil for precise mechanisms, rags and patience.

    I unscrewed the cardan on the screws and parts, checking their wear, washing, lubricating.



    We need to make a reservation. I've been playing on HP200 for about 6 years, on pearl for about 2.5 years. While playing pearl, I have vague doubts that for some reason he walks more viscous than HP200. Now I understand why, but about everything in order.



    In the process of work, I noticed several design features that significantly affect the operation of the pedal mechanism and to some extent (depends on each specific assembly) can help or hinder you from playing like Flo Munier.



    I'll start with the most important and most, as it turned out, affecting the operation of the pedal node.





    1. The football board is not a secret and everyone saw that the football board in Pearl is attached to the heel on the basis of 4 (2 pairs) fluoroplastic bushings, T-shaped section, in which the clamping bolts are screwed.

    The work of the hinge is carried out by friction-sliding of the sleeve installed in the football holder on the surface of the bolt screwed through.

    The bolts in my Pearl were tightened so that I barely unscrewed them with my fingers, making a lot of effort not to tear off the corrugation. Having unscrewed the bolts, it turned out that their landing in the sleeve was carried out with a significant (I would say even too much) tension. 15 minutes of work and the bolts with bushings are removed.

    The surfaces are washed with WD40 and oiled. (Attention! the oil should be taken non-aggressive for fluoroplastics and rubbers with a high penetrating ability)

    The bushings are installed back and the bolts are twisted with a noticeably easier stroke.

    Result: the football board has become much smoother and freer to walk in this joint after lubrication and loosening of the tightening screws. I recommend all owners of this cardan to carry out the lubrication procedure (it never hurts) and slightly loosen the screws (when tightening, do not tighten, but simply slightly tighten, leaving a distance between the bolt cap and the outer sleeve equal to the possibility of squeezing the knife blade)




    2. Spring mounting bearing - on all Cobra or Eliminator type cardans, the spring is attached to the upper clamp on the shaft

    Image

    by hooking on the eye of the bearing.

    This bearing is fixed by a screw (6-sided), which, when strongly tightened, causes a misalignment of the bearing axis, increasing its wear, causing backlash and impairing performance. I advise everyone to check the tightening of this screw with smearing this node thoroughly with WD40 and oil to improve the bearing stroke.

    After adjusting the tightening of this screw, the smoothness of the bearing and spring is significantly improved.




    3. Bearing of the main axis on the driving and driven pedals -

    Driven pedal

    since I started with the driven pedal, I will describe its operation first. So I removed all the easy-to-remove parts from the pedal and shaft, including bushings with seats for a clamp with a spring (2 6-sided).

    Image

    On the slave pedal, a sleeve from the gimbal transmission is attached to the shaft on the 1 side. On the other side, the shaft is fixed with a nut and a control washer.

    This nut is very easily unscrewed with a key and removed. As a result (which is surprising), the bearing of the left rack of the slave pedal falls out of the seat completely freely.

    After checking it for rotation, I noticed that it does NOT freely make even a couple of turns.

    Dipped it in WD40. I started spinning like a bundle (Vona pratsuye!! (c)). Structurally, the bearing ball cage is made without sealing (just a steel spring-loaded cover), i.e. it allows oil (but also dust) to freely pop into the bearing. Oil with a high penetrating ability lubricates the bearings well.In the same way, he lubricated the bearing of the right pillar.

    All hex bolts and other bolts were dipped in WD40 to prevent jamming. The pedal just transformed!! I recommend everyone to perform this procedure, especially since it does not require any settings and special equipment.

    It is important not to tighten the nuts on the left rack, because the control nut will not allow it to unwind and the inner bearing cage will not be skewed.




    Driving pedal

    Here the situation is more complicated, you will have to dig and twist the bolts. Carefully remove all bushings and clamps from the shaft. Then we work like this. Unscrew the screws on the bracket supporting the driven bearing of the main shaft of the right pedal.

    Image

    We get a gap and carefully remove the bearing from the right one. Remove the bracket and remove the driven bearing. Things are about the same as on the left pedal, we dip both in WD40 (2 min) and oil (30-60 min).

    Next, unscrewing the 6-face, we remove the slave eccentric with a cue ball and remove the bearing of the left rack according to the known scheme.

    Then everything is clear...

    In the reverse order, we mount everything back, trying not to scratch the postage on the racks, we twist it not with a "well done strength" but until there is no backlash and beating.





    4. Hinges on the driveshaft shaft -

    Here I think everyone knows, but the important point is still. These hinges should be lubricated regularly and carefully to prevent wear and the appearance of significant backlash (even new cardans have a small one). Dipped in WD40, did not smear oil because it drips and is produced from the bearing anyway, and the dirt sticks to it very cool. WD wiped it with a cloth. The course is soft, fast and silent.



    The assembled cardan showed an amazing result. The course has improved significantly. The free swing of the cue ball under its weight increased by 10-15 vibrations (almost half). Although my time-worn HP200 still walks easier (because the details are less massive there), Pearl has become a "different pedal". I was especially surprised by the tightness and tightness of the stroke in the heel joint, but it was almost eliminated, or at least significantly lightened.